How to Install a Throttle and Kickdown Linkage | The Meano Camino

When you are swapping an engine into a classic project car—like dropping a Chevy 350 and a four-barrel Holley carb into an 1981 El Camino that originally housed a V6—factory alignment rarely falls right into your lap. Getting your throttle response and transmission downshift working smoothly takes some custom adjustments, a few specialty adapter brackets, and a bit of hands-on creativity.

On this episode of The ROY Garage, we tackle getting our throttle and kickdown linkages fully sorted out so "The Meano Camino" is ready to drive.

Watch the complete project breakdown in the video below before jumping into the step-by-step guide!

Parts & Gear Used in This Build

• Throttle Lever Adapter: Edelbrock 8009 - 1977 & Later Chevrolet Throttle Lever Adapter

• Kickdown Cable Hardware: Large Screw-in Cable Stops & Aluminum Cable Stops

• Shop Apparel: Gear up in heavyweight, broken-in style with The ROY Garage Apparel Collection!

Step 1: Modify and Mount the Throttle Linkage

When transitioning to a Holley four-barrel carburetor on an engine swap, reusing factory components requires a bit of fine-tuning.

1. Pull the Bracket: Remove the original linkage bracket off your old intake manifold, ensuring you keep the mounting bolts and hardware.

2. Mount and Adjust: Secure the bracket to the intake manifold bolt. Because of spacing differences on the swap, you may need to bend or angle the bracket slightly so it points directly toward your carburetor's throttle arm.

3. Attach the Adapter: Utilize an Edelbrock throttle lever adapter (such as the #8009 for 1977 and later Chevy setups) to correct the geometry and ensure a smooth throw.

4. Secure and Test: Fasten everything down with lock washers and nuts, then have a helper press the gas pedal from inside the cab to verify smooth operation without binding or sticking.

Step 2: Fabricate and Fix the Kickdown Cable

If your transmission kickdown cable was snipped or damaged during an engine pull, you don't necessarily have to buy a whole new factory replacement assembly if you get a little creative.

1. Assess the Line: Route your replacement cable through the proper mounting points down to the transmission lever.

2. Use Cable Stops: Since the stock end was cut, use a heavy-duty screw-in cable stop or slide lock to act as a secure anchor point.

3. Crimp Aluminum Stops: Pair your setup with aluminum cable stops. Using a solid platform (like a block from a bodywork kit) to hammer or press the aluminum stops flat creates an unyielding lock on the wire.

4. Trim Excess: Leave just a small tail of extra cable in case you ever need to adjust tension down the road, and snip off the rest cleanly.

Step 3: Final Inspection and Downshift Verification

Before taking your project car out on its maiden voyage, double-check your mechanical travel.

• Verification: Have a partner step on the accelerator fully while you watch the linkage under the hood to confirm it achieves wide-open throttle and that the kickdown engages properly right before the floor.